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[personal profile] rhythmaning


Last week, I had the opportunity to try several different cappuccinos. I like good coffee – indeed, it can almost be obsessive. It really annoys me when I get bad coffee. Most cappuccinos aren’t very good – poor, insubstantial froth, milky body. If I want milky coffee, I can buy latte. Since I hate milky coffee, that is never going to happen. But when I buy a cappuccino, I don’t want a latte.

There is an Italian institution in Edinburgh, a very fine delicatessen and wine shop called Valvona & Crolla; they have been going since the 1930s, I think, and it really is a wonderful place. It used to be run by two brothers and their wives – who were also sisters. (I think this means that each of the four is their own in-law. Interesting.) Then, a couple of years ago, the younger brother and his wife decided to set up a restaurant of their own, Centotre (Italian for 103 – that’s the address on George St). Since V&C’s have a café and were starting a restaurant, as well as siblings and in-laws, this meant they were also now competitors.

Last Thursday, I found myself on George St and I decided to treat myself to a Centrotre cappuccino. I have been to the restaurant several times, and the food – and particularly the wine – have been uniformly good, and usually excellent. The coffe has been good as well – they know how to make good coffee.

Except last Thursday, they didn’t. It was so disappointing. The body of the coffee was tasteless, and the froth was completely insubstantial. It just what I wasn’t expecting – indeed, the shock, the disappointment, made it worse than had I known I was going to get a bad cappuccino. I should have complained to someone – Victor, the owner, had been around, but I couldn’t see him; so I didn’t complain; which is a pity, because I won’t now go back there for a coffee.

To assuage my disappointment, the following morning my wife and I went to V&C’s. We needed some olive oil, and I reckoned we could go there, get our fix of caffeine. It was pleasant enough – definitely better than the previous day’s effort – but again, nothing on what I have come to expect from V&C’s – where I once went to a session where the art and science of Italian coffee was taught to me by the sisters’ younger brother.

On Saturday, my wife dragged me to Caffe Nero in Stockbridge. This is a chain, a coffee bar; comfy leather seats, a high through-flow, nothing special. But the coffee was great – strong coffee, excellent foam, all just delicious.

And on Sunday had lunch at the Shore in Leith, in the bar; it was a lovely atmospheric afternoon, good food, a bottle of wine, and we sat afterwards drinking whisky (well, I drank whisky; my wife watched me) – Dalwhinnie, which I hadn’t had in ages, and Lagavulin. And we had another two cappuccinos, and they were very good, too. Thank god – I would have been heart-broken if I had to skip coffee there too – although I guess it would mean I’d just have to drink whisky, instead…

Date: 2006-02-23 09:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] chickenfeet2003.livejournal.com
Oddly enough I used to work with a Scots/Italian whose family had a fish and chip shop in Edinburgh.

Date: 2006-02-23 10:17 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rhythmaning.livejournal.com
Nothing odd about that. Just about all the chip shops in Scotland are run by Scottish/Italian families. The one around the corner - L'Alba d'Oro, reputed to be one of the best in Edinburgh - is run by cousins of the family that runs V&C's. Another famous chip shop is Brattisani's - you get the picture, I'm sure.

Do they have chip shops in Canada? I see a business opportunity...

Date: 2006-02-23 10:30 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] chickenfeet2003.livejournal.com
We do have chip shops but they are rarely really good. Of course, given the overall shortage of good quality fresh cod and haddock, one wonders how good they can be anywhere anymore. One can't even get reliably good cod in Newfoundland anymore. I'm spoiled of course. I spent significant amounts of time in Hull and Grimsby when they were still fishing ports.

Date: 2006-02-24 09:44 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com
North Shields is still a great place for a chippy. And if you're in Glasgow, then the Italian links are just as strong.

Date: 2006-02-24 09:45 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] f4f3.livejournal.com
Ah, The Shore - happy memories. I haven't been for about 5 years, and I'm glad it's still as good.

I was eating in the Ubiquitous Chip last night, and the food seems to be on an upturn again.

Date: 2006-02-24 11:27 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] itchyfidget.livejournal.com
Oops, that last comment was me.

Date: 2006-02-24 02:00 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rhythmaning.livejournal.com
I was thinking about Nardini's in Largs, too... Though it is ice cream there, rather than chips.

Date: 2006-02-24 02:01 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rhythmaning.livejournal.com
See comment about Nardini's... Actually, don't bother - that's about all I said!

Date: 2006-02-24 02:03 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] itchyfidget.livejournal.com
As in Daniella? (my ex's cousin is dating her at the moment, which is somewhat weird).

Date: 2006-02-24 02:03 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] itchyfidget.livejournal.com
Is Brattisani's still there? It was THE place to go for chips when I was in primary school ...

Date: 2006-02-24 05:07 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rhythmaning.livejournal.com
The very same. Apparently, she used to work behind the counter during holidays. Or it could just be an urban myth!

Date: 2006-02-24 05:12 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] itchyfidget.livejournal.com
It's probably true :)

Brattisani

Date: 2006-02-27 05:19 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rhythmaning.livejournal.com
The Brattisani I am thinking of is in Edinburgh's Southside - and according to Google, it is still there.

Re: Brattisani

Date: 2006-02-27 07:53 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] itchyfidget.livejournal.com
That's the one (I think there is only one) ... cool. I haven't noticed it the last few times I've been past. Neat!

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